Helford Marine Conservation Group (HMCG) AGM

At the group’s AGM on Saturday 11 March, after 12 years as Chair, Dave Thompson announced he was stepping down. Dave’s huge contribution over the years was acknowledged by the meeting and the search started for a new Chair.

Dr Pamela Tompsett, a founding member of the HMCG, was recognised for her valuable contribution to the conservation of the Helford over 36 years. Pamela said: “I little thought when I started shore work in 1986 and then took over organisation of the new group from our marine guru Stella, that I would be involved so many years later. Pressures on the environment were not uppermost in people’s minds in the 1980s and public awareness and education were vital. It’s so encouraging to see that the Helford MCG is still going strong after so many years – long may it continue!”

Guest speaker Matt Slater, Marine Conservation Officer at the Cornwall Wildlife Trust, showed the group members the amazing marine life of the Fal and Helford rivers and the changes that have occurred over the last decade. The members were also treated to a Gear Farm pasty. 

Fabulous Wooded Garden Walk, Gillan Creek

Free for under 18s and HMCG members. £4 for others. Meet at Hallowarren Barn, Carne. SW 7729 2487  A very rare opportunity to stroll through a fabulous 15 acre woodland garden and wildflower honeypot meadow with owner Amanda Loxley.  There will be a circular walk through the unspoilt woodlands early summer flowers time finishing with tea and cakes in the barn.

Helford Rockpooling

Shoresearch

Shoresearch is a citizen science project run by Cornwall Wildlife Trust that aims to improve our understanding of marine life within and around Cornwall’s Marine Protected Areas. Volunteers are provided training on shore identification and are encouraged to take part in organised events and to run their own surveys.

See what we found in rook-pooling with Shoresearch on Helford Passage beach at Christmas:

Click thumbnails to enlarge images

Helford River Rockpooling

A hint of warm weather and we flock to the beach and where nicer than the little beaches around the Helford where the dog can come too and there is a wealth of fascinating wildlife to see in our rockpools. 

Spiny starfish. Image: Ruth Williams.
Spiny starfish. Image: Ruth Williams.

Don’t forget our Seashore code.

  • Please leave animals and seaweeds where you find them, only take photos home
  • Always gently replace overturned rocks as you found them
  • Make sure a shell is empty before taking it home
  • Be careful on the shore, as rocks can be very slippery
  • Check the tides and keep away from the cliffs
  • Take your litter home with you or bin it

Helford Display Board for Your House or Garden?

You can have your own display board for a small donation, contact coordinator for details. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Seaweed Fun

Sunday 16th March saw a group of us down on the beach at Prisk, with scientific adviser Angie Gall to have our first ‘teach on the beach’ session to improve our identification skills ready for the summer season.  We concentrated on Seaweeds this time, gathering a good selection of species to take back with us to identify and press.  There will be more of these sessions to come so keep an eye on our Practical Volunteers tab under Events for more.

New Board Installed at Durgan!

David Thomson and Charles Richardson have installed one of the New Interpretation Boards at Durgan, immediately creating interest as you can see from the photo.

DSCN3644 DSCN3641

HVMCA Information Boards

To mark the 25th anniversary of the Helford Voluntary Marine Conservation Area in 2013 we are replacing the old HMVCA boards around the river.  There are currently 11 of these boards at key access points on both sides of the river.  This is the new style of board, designed by Sarah McCartney  at the Cornwall Wildlife Trust and incorporates special features of the river-above the water, between the tides and below the water.  We are hoping to fund all the new boards from sponsorship and are most grateful to several local companies who have agreed to do this.  However, we do need more and would invite anyone who is interested in sponsoring one or more boards to contact us for details.  The name of the sponsor would appear on their board.

HVMCA board for web

Maerl discovery

Dragonet in Helford Maerl by Lin Baldock copy
Dragonet in Helford Maerl by Lin Baldock

Cornwall maerl 2012 report

Kayak Helford River Clean Up a Great Success

Fishing nets, fuel cans, plastic bags, sacking and even a garden fork were all dragged from the Helford River, along with other assorted rubbish, by volunteers from the Helford Marine Conservation Group on Saturday 10th November.

The kayak rubbish pick up was declared a brilliant success by organiser Jes Hirons, despite the showery conditions and cold wind. Using kayaks enabled the 16 volunteers to reach the more inaccessible inlets, pick up the rubbish, which was then taken on aboard by the Orca Sea Safaris rib, which also provided rescue cover.

“This was a very successful day”, said Jes. “Not only were we able to help clean up a very conservationally important area, but we also had a lot of fun in doing so!”

Jes is author of a report detailing the day’s findings, it is hoped that this litter pick is going to be repeated year on year to provide meaningful data on litter on the Helford.

Fabulous Autumn Sighting

Anita and Mike Langshaw were treated to a magnificent sighting of an Osprey whilst kayaking in Frenchman’s Creek on the 1st of October. They saw it fly from a tree being closely followed by crows. It landed again but flew off before Mike could get his camera out for a good shot, although he has managed some of rather poor quality. It had a fish in its talons. It must have been stopping off for a feed on its journey to West Africa. Every year in Spring and Autumn there is a slim chance of seeing one of these birds on their migration route from Scotland to Africa.

On the 19th of October they again were lucky (is it luck or persistence? The more time you spend on the river the more you see!) They saw a small pod of Bottlenose Dolphins (approx 4) Mike says it is a number of years since he has seen them in the estuary. They were opposite Grebe Beach and seemed to be feeding but they were breaching as well.

Please send me any of your sightings from in and around the Helford via our contact page and I will put them up on the blog

Shore search reveals stunning marine wildlife around the Cornish coast!

Volunteers from Cornwall Wildlife Trust were recently treated to some incredible finds during a county-wide survey of life on some of our most important rocky shores. The ‘shore search’ survey was carried out at St Agnes, Polzeath, Looe, Fowey and Helford over four days, which saw some of the lowest spring tides of the year.

The survey uses a new method that allows data to be inputted into a national marine recorders database. Each year it will be repeated and the information gathered will provide a really useful tool for monitoring the health of our shores.

The Trust’s Matt Slater and Lisa Rennocks carried out this important work with the help of dedicated volunteers from all five of Cornwall’s Voluntary Marine Conservation Areas (VMCAs).

Matt Slater, Your Shore Project Officer for Cornwall Wildlife Trust says,

“As well as enjoying spectacularly low tides we also had beautiful weather every day for the entire four days of surveying. It was a great opportunity to look closely at life on the shore and everyone involved enjoyed identifying a wealth of species, including many species they had never seen before”

The volunteers were fortunate to have been joined by marine experts from the Porcupine Marine Natural History Society who were in Cornwall on a field trip.

Help was also provided by staff from Natural England and by marine biology staff from Cornwall College, Newquay. Their expertise added to the survey’s success and an incredible diversity of marine life was catalogued.

Matt continues,

“Highlights of the surveys included the exciting discovery at Polzeath of a rare species of mollusc, potentially an ‘egg cowrie’. We also found tiny species of cushion star with beautiful orange markings amongst corraline algae, together with huge red dahlia and strawberry anemones”

Dahlia anemone at Polzeath VMCA. Image: Matt Slater

During the survey at Trevaunance cove, St Agnes, two specimens of a tiny spiny crab known as ‘toothed crab’ were found and at both St Agnes and Polzeath. Also discovered was a very rarely recorded bizarre trumpet-like stalked jellyfish (Trust).

Continuing the survey at Fowey and the Helford, a startling diversity of species were found including many species of delicate red seaweeds with exotic names such as beautiful eyelash weed, bunnies ears, and winged weed.

At Prisk cove, part of the Helford Voluntary Marine Conservation Area, the team found a tiny sea slug called Berthella plumata and gaudily marked shrimps.

While on the shore at Readymoney Cove, Fowey, highlights included tiny seahorse-like worm pipefish, giant volcano barnacles and a tiny, rarely seen sea cucumber.

Matt says,

“I was impressed with the health of the shores surveyed; all five of the shores are home to immense diversity and are incredibly valuable to the health of our marine ecosystems. Beneath every rock lives a multitude of fascinating and astonishing marine creatures – with bizarre alien body forms and lifestyles.”

An important part of the survey work was to look for invasive species that are not native to Cornish shores but that have become established over the last few decades.

Lisa Rennocks, Investigate Invasives Project Officer, Cornwall Wildlife Trust says,

“Fortunately, to date the shores we surveyed do not seem to be adversely affected by invasive species. However, there is concern that there are increasing numbers of species arriving in the UK and at the Trust we feel that the situation definitely needs to be monitored. Japanese seaweed is now common on all Cornish shores, having been introduced in the 1950s it has spread rapidly. While another species, harpoon weed, has reached many shores and was present in large numbers at Prisk Cove, Helford”

The Your Shore Project has been set up by Cornwall Wildlife Trust to work with Voluntary Marine conservation Areas (VMCAs) in Cornwall, to allow access to its rich and diverse marine environment. The project is being funded by Heritage Lottery Fund (HLF) with a grant of £103,000 with match funding from South West Water. The aim is for the volunteer conservation groups to either strengthened or re-established in each of the target areas. Their task will be to focus on Cornwall’s diverse natural marine heritage, which is recognised as being of both regional and international importance. It contributes to the county’s appeal as a tourist destination, attracting more than five million visitors each year, but also requires protection for the same reason.

All five of the VMCAs have independent marine conservation groups working hard to protect and educate people about their valuable marine life. If you are interested in more information about your local VMCA, please visit www.cornwallwildlifetrust.org.uk/yourshore or contact Matt Slater on matt.slater@cornwallwildlifetrust.org.uk or (01872) 273939 ext 214.

Blue rayed limpet. Image: Matt Slater

Helford VMCA at the Falmouth Marine School Fresher’s Fair

Helford VMCA’s Elizabeth West was at the Falmouth Marine School’s Fresher’s Fair on Friday 28th September armed with banners, leaflets and lots of enthusiasm! Elizabeth was representing the Helford VMCA and ensuring new students at Cornwall’s ‘College of the Ocean’ were informed about the work of the VMCG, our events program, marine surveys and volunteering opportunities. The fair was a resounding success with lots of new students interested in contributing volunteering hours to the VMCA and several involved in research projects with potentially beneficial outputs for Helford. The fair also offered a chance to network with other local conservation organisations including FALPIP (Falmouth Seal Photo Identification Project), the Marine Conservation Society, Kennack Diving and researchers from the Marine School itself. Hopefully all of this will culminate in some new faces at events over the next few months and some stronger ties between local conservation groups!

Rockpool Ramble at Prisk Cove

21st August 2012

The weather didn’t bode well for our Rockpool Ramble event at Prisk on Tuesday 21st August, with heavy showers hitting hard as we drove to our meeting point. However, by the time we all assembled at Mawnan Church car park the sun was shining and the afternoon turned out to be warm and beautiful. We were a small group with only three families from Helston, Truro and Perranporth, and a keen naturalist from Penzance who very kindly recorded our day’s findings for the Environmental Records Centre for Cornwall and Isles of Scilly. I was also joined by three enthusiastic members of the Helford Marine Conservation Group – Paul Garrard, Dave Thompson and Rhiannon Pipkin.

Once gathered, our select little group walked around the coast path to our destination – Prisk Cove. I love Prisk and it is highly regarded by many other marine ecologists as being one of the best rockpooling sites in the county (if not further afield!), but hush, it’s our little secret!! The walk around the coast path, particularly in the sunshine, builds the anticipation of what we might find with glimpses of the reef extending out to August buoy and Rosemullion Head in the background. As is often the case in this magical little corner of the Helford there was hardly anyone else around so we felt like we had the whole beach to ourselves.

Prisk is an incredibly bio-diverse spot and once again did not disappoint. We headed down to the low tide mark and started to rummage, the first stones turned revealing an abundance of life. We found numerous Cornish suckerfish (Lepadogaster lepadogaster), worm pipefish (Nerophis lubriciformis) many of which had distinct orange eggs under their bellies, and a butterfish (Pholis gunnellus). Crabs also abounded including the ‘body builder’ crab Xantho incises, velvet swimming crabs and broad clawed porcelain crabs (Porcellana platycheles) clinging to the undersides of most rocks. The beautifully coloured colonial seasquirts Botryllus schlosseri and Botrylloides leachi were also found on many undersurfaces at the very low tide. One of the biggest finds was made by one of our younger participants who found a large spiny starfish, Marthasterias glacialis, about 15cm across, and more commonly seen in deeper water when diving. Other highlights included green shore urchins (Psammechinus miliaris) camouflaged with pieces of shell stuck on their spines, squat lobsters (Galathea squamifera), and the ever comical hermit crabs.

Spiny starfish. Image: Ruth Williams.

Squat lobster. Image: Peter Wood.

Our two hour event on the shore flew by and no-one wanted to stop, but as the tide turned we called it a very successful day and headed back. Those new to Prisk Cove vowing to return to this amazingly rich but little known or disturbed haven.

Ruth Williams
HMCG event leader and Marine Conservation Manager for Cornwall Wildlife Trust.

Helford Conservation Cruise

1st July 2012

The 19th Annual Conservation cruise set off on a dry day with a few grey clouds and
a brisk westerly wind. The “Enterprise” boat skipper with his intimate knowledge of
the channels and mud banks took us high up into the creeks, the haunt of shelduck,
sandpiper, redshank, heron and little egret.

A peregrine falcon gave a stunning aerial display over Dennis Head, whilst a sparrowhawk
swooped along the woodland edge in the upper creeks where two pairs of shelduck with
grey downy chicks could be seen awaiting the fall of the tide.

Ancient oak woodland fringed much of the shoreline contrasting with the impressive Sea-
Core Fugro drilling platforms at Gweek.

Sea-water tanks on-board with National Trust volunteers, gave an opportunity to see
various shore species such as crabs and anemones at close quarters.

Whilst the 100 passengers were charmed by the beauty of the trees above the ruffled
water, they also enjoyed their tea or coffee as they learnt more about the birds, the fish
and fishing, management of the land and woods, geology, local history and industries and
most importantly the whole marine web of life.

Sailors and land-lubbers alike appreciated the timeless beauty of the secluded waters,
muddy creeks, woodland tapestry and rocky shores and the importance of protection for
this vulnerable sheltered arm of the sea.

Andrew Tompsett

Edible crab. Image: Pam Tompsett.

Helford Marine Conservation Cruise. Image: Pam Tompsett.

What’s beneath your feet? (Dr Tegwyn Harris)

6th June 2012

Bar beach, Helford Passage

On a slightly blustery afternoon an intrepid group of Helford VMCA members headed out on to Bar Beach to explore the squidgy, muddy but intriguing world living beneath our feet. The event was planned to find, identify and learn a little more about some of the unusual critters to be found hidden in the muddy shores of the Helford River. We all see the mud shores, but to many of us they usually look muddy, flat and not terribly alive, so on this afternoon Tegwyn set out to prove just how much life was there, if only you open your eyes and look.

At the start of the event we promptly headed down to the bottom of the shore to begin our exploration. The first thing you notice is that the mud isn’t flat and barren – it is covered in holes, burrows, trails, mounds and strange little structures created by all of the critters living within it. With a few volunteers armed with spades, trowels and buckets it didn’t take long for us to start finding out what had made them. Tegwyn was brilliant, pitching information about the creatures we found at a level understandable by everyone from young children to marine scientists and featuring fantastic analogies including the equivalent of living on essence of fish and chips and body-snatching Hollywood aliens! We found masked crabs (Corystes cassivelaunus) which burrow into the sediment and breathe through a filtering snorkel formed from two antennae, common shore crabs (Carcinus maenas) whose body had been taken over by a parasitic barnacle which occupies its tissues and a range of bristle worms which, although often overlooked, are equally as beautiful and quirky as many of the other more familiar creatures.

Special thanks should go to Dr Tegwyn Harris for his wonderful, animated discussions on the lives of the creatures beneath our feet and for sharing some of his immense knowledge on this subject. Thanks also go to all the Helford VMCA volunteers who turned up, dug in and got muddy and to Matt Slater (Cornwall Wildlife Trust), Rhiannon Pipkin (Natural England), Pamela Tompsett and Dave Thomson (Helford VMCA) for organisation, logistics and making sure everything ran smoothly!

A full list of species found on the day can be found here.

Holly Latham

Masked Crab (Corystes cassivelaunus). Image: Holly Latham

What’s beneath your feet? Image: Pam Tompsett

Plymouth University ROV surveys the Helford

An underwater survey of the Helford in mid April was made possible thanks to the use of Plymouth University’s Remotely Operated Vehicle (ROV) and a small team of enthusiastic volunteers. Coordinated by Angie Gall, Richard Ticehurst from Plymouth University brought the ROV down for the day to survey some of the fascinating underwater habitats along the River. Combined with Chris Bean’s generous offer of his boat and role as skipper and Tony Sutton’s extensive knowledge of the underwater world of the Helford, the team of four had a very successful survey.

Excellent footage of eelgrass beds, thornback rays, crabs and lots more was taken although the highlight was recording a live and healthy maerl bed (we are currently awaiting confirmation of the species but are fairly confident that it is Lithothamnion corallioides).

The next step is to get a dive survey team to map the maerl bed and to start building an up to date habitat map of the Helford.

Photos and video clips from the survey will be posted in our gallery shortly!

Our thanks go to Angie, Chris, Richard and Tony for volunteering their time to orchestrate such a successful survey.

Coastal Ketches and Inside Barges (Andy Wyke)

14 January 2012

‘A sewn boat? What’s that?’ ‘Well, it was a way of constructing boats in the Bronze Age, about 2500 BC, before nails had been invented. With the tools available at the time, bronze axes and adzes, logs would be split and fashioned into planks, to be stitched edge-to-edge with fibres from yew branches. Moss was used for caulking.’

Our speaker, Andy Wyke, was well qualified to tell us. As Boat Collection Manager at the National Maritime Museum Cornwall, he has been one of the prime movers in a project which will use ancient tools to build a 60ft replica Bronze Age boat at the museum this summer (Apr – Sep), in an open workshop on view to the public. An example from the period was discovered in NE Yorkshire. Propelled by about 20 rowers it could have crossed the North Sea; and boats of this type may have been used to transport tin, which was a commodity traded with Europe during the Bronze Age. The Salcombe Hoard (over 300 items of copper, gold and tin discovered in 2009 and now in the British Museum) came from a sunken Bronze Age boat. Of similar age, the Sky Disc of Nebra, found in Germany, was a bronze disc with inlaid gold shapes representing the sun, moon and stars. The gold was traced to the old Carnon mine.

In Romano-British times, edge-butted planks were fastened onto ribs using iron nails; and the boat carried a square sail, Scandinavian-style. Gweek was a Roman trading port. By the 11th Century a distinction was developing between boat builders and ship builders. Boats were built ‘by eye’, from experience, using hewn planks and clinker (overlapping) construction. Ship building involved plan drawings, planks from saw mills and carvel (flush) construction.

Records indicate that since post-Medieval times, from about 1500 AD onwards, there have been around 39 quays in the Helford, Merthen being one of the oldest. They enabled river and sea-going trade in coal, spars, limestone, granite and a variety of other commodities, carried by ships and boats that were built at Helford or Gweek, or built elsewhere, such as Penryn and Fowey, and registered in the Helford. A table for 1786 to 1861 shows that their sizes ranged from 17 to 69 tons. Some of these vessels had long working lives. The Hobah, for instance, was a 70ft x 19ft, 56 ton ketch, built in 1879 on a creek near Mylor, which traded to the South Coast and France with cargos such as coal, manure and granite for lighthouses. It ended its activities in 1945. Ships’ masters, such as Capt. Will Lamey, were not required to have paper qualifications; they just had to be competent to do all the jobs on board. The captain’s proficiency in running his ship was the key factor in the success, or otherwise, of a trading vessel.

Diverse craft would have been seen in the Helford during the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, from the impressive 125ft x 25ft barquentine Waterwitch, which was built in 1871 and operated in the coal trade until 1948, to the more workaday 25 ton sailing barge Little Industry, which was built in Truro in the 1880s and traded from Porthallow. An evocative painting by local artist John Whale (who was in the audience) showed her resting on the mud at St Antony at low tide, offloading cargo into a horse-drawn cart alongside. Goods would be transferred to barges and lighters when deep-draught sea-going vessels were unable to dock at quays. A notable craft was the 1880’s brigantine Lady of Avenel. A photograph showed her loading granite at Porth Navas, where a quay had been constructed in 1830 to serve about 8 granite quarries in the Constantine-Mabe area and handle returning limestone. At times, piles of granite blocks on the quay would be 40-50ft high. The trade subsequently moved to Penryn and Lady of Avenel was sold to Frank Worsley, who famously was captain of the Endurance in 1916 and navigated the small boat in which Shackleton sailed for help to South Georgia after Endurance was crushed by Antarctic ice. In WWI Worsley commanded a Q-ship, a U-boat killer. In 1925 he took Lady of Avenel on an Arctic expedition. She returned to Bridlington, then Poole Harbour and ended her days in 1965 when she was towed out to sea, set alight and sunk.

In 1848 around 200 boats operated from Gweek in the fish trade. Pilchards were the target catch, as they had been for about 400 years. The season ran from mid-summer to March and the fish were taken to cellars at Helford, Gweek, Durgan and Gillan, where they were cured on floors and then packed into hogsheads, containing 3000 fish and weighing 450lb, for export to Italy and other destinations. Over 50 million fish were caught annually, 63,000 hogsheads were noted for 1864 and the catch from 1815 to 1914 exceeded 1 billion tons. The boats were mainly luggers, such as the 35ft Ganges and the Mystery (a replica of which was used by Pete Goss and his family to sail to Australia a few years ago). Gig-type rowing boats could also be used for fishing. A lesser, but still important, trade was in oysters, associated with Porth Navas. These would be dredged from craft ranging from a 14ft rowboat to the 43ft Rob Roy, a fast sailing boat owned by the Tyacks of Merthen. Unusually this had a wet hold for transporting young oysters to the beds as well as containment for mature shellfish to market.

A perhaps unexpected part of shipping in the Helford over a century ago was linked to emigration. From 1815 to 1914, 50 million people from Europe, 10 million from Britain and ¼ million from Cornwall (a high proportion of the resident population) left in search of a better life in Australia and the Americas. The ‘Penny Emigrants Sheet’ advised them to take spades, shovels, etc, but ‘any clothes will do’. The West Briton advertised a sailing from Gweek to Philadelphia. Fares of £4 for an adult, £2 for a child, were administered by the mines, government agents and shipping agents. As cargos came in, people went out, packed into cramped holds where death and disease were commonplace.

What remains today of this past activity? Gweek has SeaCore and a boatyard, oysters are still farmed from Porth Navas, there is a small fishing fleet and commercial shipping has been replaced by leisure boating. Possibly the most enduring link is the ferry. Crossing from Helford Passage to Treath from about 1023 and Helford Passage to Helford from the 1880s, it has been owned at different times by the Godolphin family, the Duke of Leeds, the Grylls family and is now privately owned. It has been a continuing part of the Helford scene for over 1000 years.

The HMCG wishes to thank Andy Wyke very much for his wide-ranging and absorbing talk; and for editing the above report.

Paul Garrard

Leatherback turtles and their jellyfish prey (Dr Matt Witt)

31st March 2012

Of the 7 species of marine turtles, 3 are seen regularly in UK waters: the Leatherback, Loggerhead and Kemp’s Ridley turtles. However, Britain also has interests in overseas waters, such as the Caribbean, and so the work of the Marine Turtle Research Group of Exeter University, based at Tremough, encompasses the world’s oceans. For our speaker, Dr Matthew Witt, the principal study area has been the beaches of Gabon, West Africa. Secluded and little frequented, (although with oilfields offshore), these are the nesting grounds for the world’s largest population of Leatherback turtles. Hitherto this community has been one of the least studied, but by attaching transmitters to the turtles’ backs it has been possible to track their movements. The devices, which have a battery life of 180 days, transmit automatically to a satellite each time the animal surfaces. Combining the results for a 5-year period it is clear that the turtles from Gabon seek the food-rich areas along the west coast of Africa from Cape Town to the equator, then west along the Southern Equatorial Current, while some cross the relatively barren southern ocean to forage off south Brazil.

Turtles evolved from land reptiles which returned to the sea and had become fully adapted to the marine environment by the Cretaceous period (145 – 65 Ma), such that they are now cosmopolitan and occupy all marine habitats except polar. Belonging to the same taxonomic class as marine iguanas and sea snakes, they play key ecological roles, for example by having specialised diets or by grazing on sea grass. Hawksbill turtles eat mainly sponges, Leatherbacks eat jellyfish, while Loggerheads eat anything, such as fish discards, molluscs and crabs. Factors which cause their lives to be at risk include being caught in fishing nets and lines, degradation of breeding grounds and the harvesting of individuals and eggs. Turtles can live for 60 to 80 years. They are slow to mature, taking 20 to 25 years to reach adulthood, at which stage they migrate to their natal areas to breed. The male then returns to a foraging area while the female goes to the beach where it was born, scrapes a deep hole in the sand above high water mark, lays its eggs and then fills in the hole with sand. During adult life they breed every 1 to 4 years and in each nesting year multiple egg clutches are laid, perhaps 60 – 100 eggs every 2 weeks. After incubating for 50 to 70 days all the hatchlings from one clutch emerge together, at night, and rush for the sea, hoping to avoid gathered predators such as dogs, snakes, cats, lizards and birds. Their sex has been determined by the heat of the sand: temperatures above 260C favour the development of females, below that, males. Once in the sea, the hatchlings are distributed by coastal and ocean currents and begin their long period of maturing, although, because of natural predation, perhaps only one in a thousand will survive the 20 years to adulthood. By far the worst predator, however, is man, who kills turtles at their most vulnerable and most critical stage, when the females return to lay; and digs up their eggs.

Four species of marine turtle are rarely or never seen in UK waters. The Green turtle, which can be 4 ft (1.2 m) long and weigh 300-400 lb, is found around the globe within the tropics. It feeds on sea grass and has numerous nesting sites, such as Ascension Island, the Galapagos and NE Australia, but is in serious decline because of man’s exploitation for its flesh and eggs. Another tropical species is the Hawksbill, smaller than the Green turtle with a shell length of about 2 ft (60 cm). It frequents coral reefs where it feeds on sponges, crabs, molluscs and jellyfish. Its flesh is said to be unpalatable and may be poisonous, but the animal’s carapace is in demand as the source of “tortoiseshell”. The Olive Ridley turtle appears to be confined to the S. Atlantic. The Flatback is a rarity, found only in N. Australian waters.

The earliest record of a turtle in UK waters was in 1756, off Lands End. Since then, studies have shown that the principal distributor for Loggerhead and Kemp’s Ridley turtles is the North Atlantic Gyre, an ocean current which issues from the Gulf of Mexico and in a 7-year journey sweeps north past the Florida and Carolinas coasts (which contain the largest population of Loggerheads), then east towards Spain and back to the Gulf. A branch on the north side, the Gulf Stream, carries warm waters to Europe. These currents transport juvenile and immature turtles in their pelagic stages. Over the past 100 years there have been a few hundred UK sightings and strandings of Loggerheads, mostly 15-20 cm long but a few measuring more than 60 cm and perhaps representing a double circuit of the gyre. Full size animals can be 40 inches (1 m) long and weigh 300 lb. Sightings occurred throughout the year, but there were more in the winter months, which also saw a higher percentage of deaths, since smaller animals are more vulnerable to falling temperatures. The records for each decade since 1900 indicate very low numbers in the 1960s to 1980s, because of losses to fishing in the USA. Subsequently there has been a dramatic increase in UK Loggerheads, all recorded on the west and south coasts of Britain and Ireland.

The Kemp’s Ridley is a small turtle about 1 ft (30 cm) long which ranges from the eastern seaboard of the USA to W. Africa and W. Europe. Formerly numbering hundreds of thousands from its breeding ground off Rancho Nuevo in Mexico, by the late 1980s it was down to a few hundreds and heading for extinction. Its eggs had been taken for food and its skins for leather goods. Conservation and re-stocking have restored numbers to a few thousand. There have been several tens of sightings and strandings in UK waters over the last century, just a few each decade with none in the 1950s and 1980s. They occurred in winter months and most of the animals were 20-25 cm long, with a high proportion dead.

Leatherbacks are the largest of the sea turtles. They can grow to a length of 9 ft (2.7 m) with a flipper span of 9 ft and can weigh up to 1800 lb. Their carapace is made of hundreds of bony plates covered with leathery skin. All turtles are ectothermic, their body temperature controlled by the environment, but the huge body size of the Leatherback, combined with metabolic adaptations to conserve heat, gives it a wider global range than others into waters as cool as 100C. In the Atlantic it spreads from the tip of S. Africa to north of Scandinavia. Leatherbacks feed on jellyfish, salps and similar soft-bodied zooplankton and, being strong swimmers, they have no difficulty in following the areas of high food productivity as these move with the seasons. Satellites have tracked them from Venezuela to the Rockall Bank and from Trinidad and Tobago to the Flemish Cap region east of Newfoundland, thence to the Azores and to waters off Mauretania and Iberia. Unlike hard-shell turtles, which arrive in UK waters incidentally throughout the year in the Gulf Stream, Leatherbacks come with intent, seeking rich food areas during the warm summer months of June to October. More than 800 sightings and strandings have been recorded over the last century with a steeply increasing trend over the last 30 years. Predominantly they are on the west coasts of Britain and Ireland but some occur on the east coast.

Matthew made several points in summary. Increased sightings of the three species over the last few decades might be due to (a) better conservation, (b) climate change, (c) greater awareness. Climate change affects the distribution of jellyfish and hence Leatherbacks. Equally, over-fishing upsets the food chain allowing jellyfish numbers to increase. Hard-shell turtles are carried to the UK throughout the year by the Gulf Stream and suffer most mortality during winter months. Leatherbacks are seasonal, coming in the summer to eat. Sightings and strandings are concentrated on the west coasts of Britain and Ireland, but some Leatherbacks venture to the east coast. Most sightings in Cornwall are on the north coast and embayments appear to be important.

The HMCG is extremely grateful to Matthew for his informative and thoroughly fascinating talk and for amending the above report.

Paul Garrard

© Helford Voluntary Marine Conservation Area